Bison Center Opens in Custer State Park

Rapid City Journal Shalom Baer Gee , May 20, 2022 Updated Jun 25, 2022

Custer State Park held the ribbon cutting and grand opening of its new $5 million Bison Center on May 20, 2022. Photo by Matt Gade, Rapid City Journal.

About 100 people gathered on Friday for the grand opening of Custer State Park’s Bison Center, located near the bison corral complex off Wildlife Loop Road.

The barn-style building tells the story of the park’s bison herd through a mixture of interactive and educational exhibits, including samples of an American Bison’s summer coat beside a winter coat.

A timeline of the history of bison, specifically the herd of nearly 1,400 that now live in the park, spans the three walls. The herd started at a mere 36. 

A computer screen features footage of the annual Buffalo Roundup and Auction where the bison are given health checks, vaccinations and some of the herd is auctioned off to maintain a sustainable population at the park. Several full-body bison mounts also adorn the building.

The center was made possible by a $4 million grant from The Leona M. and Harry B. Helmsley Charitable Trust, $500,000 allocated from the South Dakota Legislature, and an additional $500,000 in private donations raised by the South Dakota Parks and Wildlife Foundation, according to a Custer State Park press release.

Speakers at the event included Lt. Gov. Larry Rhoden; Walter Panzirer, a Trustee for the Helmsley Charitable Trust; Cabinet Secretary of Game, Fish & Parks Kevin Robling; and Custer State Park Superintendent Matt Snyder.

Engaging exhibits tell why the park does a roundup each year and how the bison are managed—from genetic testing, research and range management. Photo by MG, RCJournal.

“I love this park,” said Kevin Robling, Cabinet Secretary of Game, Fish & Parks. “For more than a century, Custer State Park has been known as the state’s crown jewel.

“Today that jewel just got a little bit brighter. We strive to serve and connect people and families to the outdoors, and our vision is to enhance the quality of life for current and future generations, and this facility will do just that.”

Snyder thanked the staff at Game, Fish & Parks in Custer State Park, the state engineer’s office staff, Perspective, Inc. and architectural design studio, Brett Olson and his staff at Mac Construction, Betty Brennan and her staff at Taylor Studios, who designed the interior of the building, and “so many subcontractors who put forth a tremendous effort to see this (happen) quickly.”

“For those who may have been with us last year at the roundup at the end of September (2021), we had a little bit of concrete coming out of the ground, and just a few short months later, look at where we’re standing today. It’s amazing,” Snyder said.

The park’s interpretive programs manager, Lydia Austin, said she and her team worked with the Helmsley Foundation for the building itself, and her team worked together on designing the displays, writing text and photo selection. In the early planning, meetings centered around what type of bison story the new center would tell.

“The bison story is such a huge part of North America. It was hard to take it and reduce it down to our building,” Austin said. “In the end of the conversations, we decided we wanted to tell the story of the Custer State Park herd, how we became a conservation herd, how we still manage our animals. We still protect them for future generations, and we said that was the story we wanted to stick to.”

Small visitor is attracted to a mounted prairie dog and box that speaks. Photo by MG, RCJ.

For many Native American cultures, the bison is a significant cultural and spiritual animal. Austin said the park recognizes this, but chose to focus primarily on Custer State Park’s herd. There is a small section on a poster recognizing the significance of bison to Native Americans, but the center doesn’t include materials elaborating on that. 

“Buffalo are attached to so many stories. Whose story do we tell? Is it our story to tell? In the end, we really decided we’re going to tell Custer State Park’s story. That’s the one we’re comfortable with, and we know we’re telling the correct story,” Austin said. 

A timeline of the history of bison, specifically the herd of nearly 1,400 that now live in the park, spans the three walls. The herd started at a mere 36 from the Scotty Philip herd. Photo by MG, RCJ.

Rhoden spoke at the ribbon cutting. He told the Journal afterwards the center will enhance visitors’ experiences at the buffalo roundup.

A computer screen features footage of the annual Buffalo Roundup and Auction where the bison are given health checks, vaccinations and some of the herd is auctioned off to maintain a sustainable population at the park.

“I think it’s really special because we have tens of thousands of people that come to the roundup. They see the roundup, but they don’t know what’s going on. They don’t know the history behind the buffalo, so this gives them an idea of what it’s all about,” Rhoden said. “The buffalo is such a big part of our culture and heritage in South Dakota that sometimes we tend to forget about it.”

Reprinted with permission from the Rapid City Journal, as reported by Shalom Baer Gee. Photos by Matt Gade, Rapid City Journal.

To the far right on the second photo are the buffalo working chutes and the corral complex—off Wildlife Loop Road— where the new Bison Center is located. Last year at the buffalo roundup only a concrete platform could be seen. Now the new Bison Center is ready for visitors all year long, as well as for the September Roundup. Photos by FM Berg.

For the many hundreds of visitors who come for the Bison Roundup in September and stay for a buffalo dinner and working the smaller herd of bison it may be a long walk to the working chutes. Or if you can easily find your car where you parked on the hills behind where you settled in your lawn chairs, you can drive over to the corrals.

The smaller herd is rounded up and brought in a few days early to familiarize them with the new pasture, which eases them for the stress of being worked and perhaps held too long in the chutes. The larger herd brought in that day on the run needs to calm down a few days before being worked, according to the handlers.

Upcoming events in Custer State Park

 

More Comments on Opening Day

“I think some of the unique features of the Bison Center are, one in particular, is just the timeline of how we got bison in the park, you know from 1913 into the current day. That’s always a neat, unique feature,” said Matt Snyder, Custer State Park Superintendent.

“And then we also have a map here in the park that ever since we started the auction back in the early seventies, of where have all the bison gone that have left Custer State Park to start other herds or to supplement other herds. That’s quite an interesting thing too that people like to see.”

“The Bison Center will be a landmark destination for visitors from across South Dakota and around the world to understand the North American bison’s rich history and learn about Custer State Park’s role in preserving this magnificent animal,” said Walter Panzirer, a Trustee for the Helmsley Charitable Trust. “It has been exciting to be part of the project since inception, and I am honored to see it come to fruition with the ribbon cutting and grand opening.”

Lieutenant Governor Larry Rhoden, spoke at the event announcing that he will introduce legislation next year to make bison, the iconic symbol of the American West the official South Dakota state animal.

Snyder said that the center will add to the annual Custer State Park Buffalo Roundup.“Now, after the Roundup, a lot of people leave. Some will come down and see the crowds and watch the bison get work(ed), but now they have another opportunity to come and stay a little bit longer and see the center,” said Snyder. “I think it’s going to aid in educating the public as to what we are really doing and why are we doing what we’re doing,” he said.

Governor Kristi Noem announced the fund raising campaign during the 2020 Custer Bison Roundup.. She said the Leona M. and Harry B. Helmsley Charitable Trust had awarded a $4 million grant to SDPWF to construct the Bison Center.

“Achieving this campaign goal”—(of 5 million dollars)—”will require support from private and public partners who share the dream and vision of the Bison Center. Custer State Park has played a key role in bison conservation for over a century,” she said.

“This one-of-a-kind center will allow the park to tell its story and educate future generations on the importance of the bison. I urge you to support the South Dakota Parks and Wildlife Foundation’s 2020-2021 Custer State Park Bison Center fundraising campaign.”

History of Custer State Park

A timeline of history:

Custer State Park is South Dakota’s first and largest state park. Its history dates back to 1897.

Just 8 years after South Dakota joined the union, Congress granted to the state, sections 16 and 36 in every township as school lands. South Dakota had difficulties attempting to administer the scattered blocks of state school lands within the Black Hills timberland.

In 1906, negotiations opened to exchange the scattered lands for a solid block. In 1910, South Dakota relinquished all rights to 60,000+ acres of timberland within the Black Hills Forest Reserve in exchange for nearly 50,000 acres of forest in Custer County and about 12,000 acres in Harding County.

Together, these two parcels were designated Custer State Forest in 1912. After action by the State Legislature, having been prompted by the urgings of “prairie statesman” Governor Peter Norbeck, Custer State Forest became Custer State Park. 

    • 1914: 36 Bison purchased from the Scotty Philip’s herd near Pierre
    • 1916: 12 pronghorn antelope added
    • 1919: On July 1, Custer State Park officially became a state park
    • 1921: C.C. Gideon opened the Game Lodge on August 8, it burned on October 19 and was reopened on June 15
    • 1922: Needles Highway was completed and 8 Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep were introduced
    • 1924: Bison herd totaled 100 animals
    • 1925: Badger Clark completed his cabin “Badger Hole”
    • 1927: President Calvin Coolidge and Mrs. Coolidge spent three months at the Game Lodge, “Summer White House”
    • 1932: The Civilian Conservation Corps completed Iron Mountain Road, connecting State Game Lodge and Mount Rushmore National Monument. The Civilian Conservation Corps completed multiple projects within the park
    • 1941: Construction completed on Mount Rushmore. It began in 1927
    • 1946: Black Hills Playhouse productions began in a tent near Legion Lake
    • 1951: 60 bison purchased from Pine Ridge Indian Reservation herd
    • 1953: President Eisenhower visited State Game Lodge
    • 1961: Visitation reached 1,000,000 people
    • 1966: In February, first live buffalo auction held with 100 animals
    • 1979: The park museum and welcome center, built by the Civilian Conservation Corps, dedicated as Peter Norbeck Visitor Center
    • 1988: Galena Fire, started by lightning, burned 16,002 acres; 1990: Cicero Peak Fire, spark from logging equipment, burned 4,510 acres inside park, 14,203 acres total; 2017: Legion Lake Fire one of the largest wildfires in SD history.
    • 2016: New Visitor Center unveiled
    • 2022: Bison Center Opens near the buffalo working chutes and corral complex

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    NEXT: Blog 83-How much meat could a Buffalo hunter eat?

    Francie M Berg

    Author of the Buffalo Tales &Trails blog

    Mexican Bullfight

    Scotty Philip grazed his Buffalo in rugged badlands on the west side of the Missouri River near Pierre. Photo Harlan Kredit, NPS.

    One day a group of Mexican dignitaries from Juarez, visiting in Pierre, SD, came up the Missouri River on a tourist boat to have a look at Scotty Philip’s famous buffalo herd. With great interest and disdain, they eyed the shaggy beasts grazing up the draws and steep bluffs on the west side of the river.

     As the tour boat came to a stop along the river’s west bank, they pointed out to each other the big buffalo bulls and mocked their apparent lethargic demeanor.

     Contrasting these with their own flashy fighting bulls, they boasted to the tour guide and other passengers, with a trifle too much exuberance, that their feisty Mexican bulls would make short work of these lazy, slow-moving buffalo bulls.

     In the frontier town of Fort Pierre, miffed locals took offense. Scotty Philip’s sporting friends made their own boasts and persuaded him to challenge the visitors to a contest.

     One thing led to another and the two factions agreed to meet that winter in the Juarez bull-fighting ring. A bet was rumored at $10,000 for the winner.

    On a sidehill, Pierre and Pierre Junior appeared as lazy, slow-moving bulls. But in fact, they were alert and ready to defend the herd in an instant. Courtesy Vince Gunn.

    Scotty Philip and his crew selected two bulls—a mature eight-year-old herd bull in his prime and an energetic four-year-old—and named them Pierre and Pierre Junior.

    In early January 1907 the two bulls and three South Dakota men shipped out in a railroad car bound for El Paso and Juarez, just across the Mexican border. The rail car was fitted with heavy planking and penned off for each bull.

    At the last minute, a severe January blizzard cut short Scotty Philip’s plans and he had to stay home with cattle emergencies. Instead, he recruited his nephew George, to represent his interests at the Mexican Bullfight in Mexico.

    A lawyer just starting his law practice in Fort Pierre, George Philip had learned the cowboy life as a young Scottish immigrant on his uncle’s ranch. He travelled with two local experts, Bob Yokum, an enthusiastic promoter and friend, and Eb Jones, cowman and buffalo handler.

    The first Sunday in January opened the Mexican bull-fighting season with a large and enthusiastic bull-fighting crowd in the stands.

    The two buffalo bulls arrived just in time that Sunday morning. After 7 days of delays in shunting the boxcar from one railway line to another, they finally made it across the border and into an unloading chute.

    The entertainment began that day with a parade of matadors, banderilleros and picadors dressed in red, blue and silver finery, dazzling with tinsel and sequins.

    Next came four regular bullfights. By the time the fourth bull was stabbed to death in the arena, the crowd was shouting for the Buffalo to come out.

    The main event featured what the Mexican audience fully expected to be a humiliation for the big, slow-moving buffalo. Pierre walked slowly into the ring, favoring his left hind leg, and stood quietly. Perhaps he was stunned by the hot southern sunshine in the middle of winter.

    The crowd taunted him and jeered loudly.

    Seated in the governor’s box as guests, Pierre’s three anxious South Dakota handlers murmured to each other their concerns. They worried that Pierre was exhausted from his 7 straight days cooped up in one end of a boxcar and was now suddenly prodded and pushed into the middle of a bull-fighting arena, in unfamiliar surroundings, filled with shouting people and strange smells.

    The hot climate was an abrupt change from the extreme cold that his heavy winter hair coat had prepared him for.

    On top of all this, he suffered a dislocated left fetlock, apparently from kicking the sides of the boxcar.

    Scotty Philip’s buffalo and a Mexican bull in the Juarez, Mexico bullring, 1907. George Philip’s account mentions the buffalo’s injured “left hind leg,” but the photo suggests he may be favoring his right hind leg. Perhaps the photo is reversed, or the bull happened to raise his right hind leg off the ground as the photo was snapped, or George was mistaken, the author speculates. SD State Hist Society.

    Cheering swelled from the stands as another gate opened.

    Into the ring pranced a handsome red Mexican bull with sharp, treacherous horns, head up, two colorful darts flying from his withers. He stopped at a little distance and took the measure of his opponent, shaking his head fiercely and pawing the ground.

    Pierre turned to confront him with massive head and shoulders, three-quartering his flank away.

    Seeking an easier target, the Mexican bull circled. Suddenly he charged at full speed, intent on slashing Pierre’s flank with his long sharp horns, in what seemed certain to lead to a bloody goring.

    Pierre stood still an instant and then in one smooth, rapid movement, pivoted his light hind quarters out of the way and met the bull head on, cracking heads. Photo Chris Hull, SDGFP.

    The fighting bull staggered back and tried again—fighting bulls pivot on their powerful back legs, while buffalo do the opposite, keeping their massive head and shoulders out front, protecting their backsides 

    Pierre stood his ground as the Mexican bull charged to meet him. Again, they whacked heads

    The Mexican bull backed off in confusion, evidently surprised at how powerfully Pierre’s huge, hard head smashed into the center of his smaller head, while escaping the twist of his own sharp, treacherous horns.

    He maneuvered a better angle of attack. Again, he charged. Again, Pierre pivoted swiftly on his front legs, swinging his rear out of range.

    Again, Pierre met the Mexican bull head on, this time with extra force that knocked the feisty fighter to his knees.

    Not lacking in courage, the gutsy red bull charged a third time, against another powerful slash of Pierre’s huge head and horns, which knocked him flat.

    Pierre simply stood his ground. He met every charge but didn’t follow up his advantage. After knocking the bull down, he ignored him, allowing him to rise and fight again.

    The bull tried one last time and was again knocked flat, this time with an angry shake of Pierre’s head.

    The courageous Mexican fighting bull had had enough. He circled the arena looking in vain for an escape gate.

    The spectators roared their disappointment and disapproval.

    The ring manager asked the South Dakotans if they’d be willing to let their buffalo fight another bull.

    “The red bull is not feeling well today,” he said. “Another will surely put up a better fight.”

    The three men agreed to allow it. They’d come a long way to see Pierre fight as they knew he could. A buffalo bull does not remain top herd bull without fighting continual fierce battles!

    A second Mexican bull entered the ring with fire and fury. He eyed the strange shaggy beast quartering his flank away from him and charged—only to smash unexpectedly into that massive, well-armed head.

    Three times Pierre knocked him flat. Twice he rose to attack again. The last time he ran for the gate and could not be persuaded to fight either buffalo or matador.

    A third bull entered the ring, with the same results.

    The three panicked fighting bulls now circled the ring looking for escape. Three bull fighters waved red capes and pricked their hides with silver swords, trying desperately to get them to fight. All the bulls refused.

    Pierre regarded the smaller, cowering bulls with disinterest. He lay down, nonchalantly resting, chewing his cud, secure in the knowledge that—of course—he was the top bull.

     At last, the crowd stood up and cheered him.

    “Now I know this isn’t very sporting, but the bulls have disappointed me.” The ring master called to the visitors again. “I would like it if you’ll agree that I may turn in one more bull.”

    “Turn in all the bulls you want, just make sure you give that buffalo room to turn around,” shouted one of the South Dakotans.

    By the fourth fighting bull, Pierre was getting irritated. He rose to his feet and for the first time, pawed the dirt, warning the other bull away.

    He charged. Crash! The Mexican bull flew backward and landed in a heap. He didn’t try again, and Pierre disdained following up on his victory.

    Lined up for a Matador photo in the arena are the three men in charge of the buffalo bulls—at upper left, back row, George Philip and Eb Jones (tallest) and Bob Yokum, at far right in front row. The others are also from Stanley County SD, West Pierre, and happened to be on hand in Juarez to watch the fight between Mexican Bulls and Buffalo. SD Historical Society.

    The Mexican promoters called for a fight the next Sunday between Pierre Junior, the lively four-year-old buffalo, and a Matador with sword and cape in hand.

    Pierre Junior

    That day arrived with an exceptionally large and enthusiastic crowd on hand to watch the contest, advertised as four bull fights with matadors, followed by the buffalo and matador fight.

    All were sorely disappointed.

    The first bull let into the ring was the same handsome red bull of Pierre’s first fight from the Sunday before. Reputed to be one of the most splendid fighting bulls in the Juarez bull ring, the red bull shook his head, refused to fight the matador and ran for an escape opening.

    Upon coming into the ring, the next three bulls repeated that same dismal performance.

    Finally, an aggressive Pierre Junior charged into the ring looking for trouble. But the governor called off the match almost as it began, unwilling for their best fighters to suffer more humiliation.

    He promised the crowd to refund their tickets.

    As it turned out Scotty Philip was right. The Mexican fighting bulls—although gallant, fiery, highly-trained and said to be the finest in Mexico—were no match for a top buffalo herd bull.

    Pierre Junior, his dignity intact, stood alone in the middle of the ring while the crowd cheered the magnificent stranger from South Dakota—mighty monarch of the plains and prairies

    Epilogue: In another version of the “Mexican vs Buffalo Bulls” fight in Juarez, George Philip added that one of the men heard from a woman who saw these two Buffalo fights. She told him that several Sundays later, after Pierre’s leg had fully healed, he was advertised to fight again in Juarez.

    Since they were not allowed to bring the bulls back into the U.S. after crossing into Mexico, the South Dakotans had sold them for $200 each to the ring master and a butcher.

    Pierre’s promoters had built a pen of four-by-four timbers in the middle of the ring, the woman explained, with a chute leading into it.

    Pierre ran down the chute, and a Mexican fighting bull followed.

    The bull could not escape and Pierre fought with him and killed him.

    A second and then a third fighting bull followed down the chute and Pierre killed them both. A fourth bull was run in and when the buffalo bull killed him he shoved the slain opponent through the side of the pen.

    The woman said she heard that the buffalo bull then went on to fight in Chihuahua, Mexico City and Madrid.

    George Philip ended his story with the question, “Maybe the lady had the story straight. Who knows?”

    Source: George Philip, “Buffaloes versus Mexican Bulls.” Note that George Philip was one of the six cowboys delegated to round up and bring in the original Dupree buffalo herd 100 miles to their new home with the Scotty Philips, after Pete Dupree died. Fortunately for us and the buffalo’s loyal fans, many years later George described in detail the Mexican Bull Fight through a newspaper article, and then in SD Historical Review II, Jan 1937, and SD Historical Collections XX, 1940.

    NEXT:

     

    Francie M Berg

    Author of the Buffalo Tales &Trails blog

    When Buffalo Cry

    When Buffalo Cry

    Guest Editors Kathleen O’Neal Gear and W. Michael Gear

    Mike and Kathy Gear with Pia, their first bottle-baby. Courtesy the authors.

    Bison, better known as buffalo, played a vital role in the history of the West. The native peoples considered them to be sacred and magical animals. Some early explorers and ranchers felt the same way.

     Since we’ve been living with bison for the past 25 years, we wanted to share a few of our experiences with you. Those experiences have informed our writing, but they’ve also helped us to understand bison’s iconic status in the early West.

     It’s 7 on a cold May morning in 2002, and we’re out checking the buffalo when we notice a cow lying alone by the electric fence.

     We pull out the binoculars to see the cow’s number. It’s #411, a cow named Little Mother. She was in labor last night, but we do not see a calf beside her. We drive forward slowly, looking for that telltale glimpse of orange fur in the tall grass.

     As we get closer, we see the newborn bull calf stretched over the bottom wire of the fence. The hot wire. He’s clearly dead. Little Mother just won’t leave him.

     We always have a veterinary inspection done of animals that die on the ranch, so we’re going to wait until Little Mother leaves, collect the calf and take him to our excellent vet in Worland, Wyoming.

     It will turn out that the bull calf died shortly after birth when he apparently stumbled over the hot wire and the millisecond pulse stopped his heart—the first and only time this has happened.

     But this is not the story of a dead calf. It’s the story of the herd’s behavior in the hours after we found Little Mother.

    Bison Bull on Red Canyon Ranch, Themopolis, Wyoming. Courtesy of authors.

    About 20 minutes after we turned off the truck engine and poured cups of coffee from the thermos, Little Mother’s best friend, Sister Crazy Horse, separated from the herd and came over to lie down beside her.

     Sister Crazy Horse gently licked Little Mother’s ears, looked at the dead calf and stretched her neck over Little Mother’s back, where she stayed for several minutes.

     A little while later, two more cows left the main herd and came to joining Sister Crazy Horse. They took turns licking Little Mother.

     At one point, Sister Crazy Horse got up and went to the fence to nudge the dead calf with her nose. When it didn’t move, she returned to lick Little Mother.

     Over the next hour the rest of the herd gradually moved closer, until it stood about 100 yards away from the four cows by the dead calf.

     At last Little Mother got up and walked a short distance away to graze. The three other cows went with her, leaving us our chance to drive over, block their views with the truck and pull the calf off the fence. We loaded him in the back of the truck and started to drive away.

     But we stopped about an eighth of a mile down the road. The cows had suddenly noticed the calf was gone. Little Mother charged back and began sniffing around, clearly looking for him, running up and down the fence.

     Sister Crazy Horse and four other cows trotted over to join her in the search. They all sniffed along the fence.

     After about five minutes Little Mother dropped beside the fence in the exact place where she’d been earlier, but Sister Crazy Horse and four cows joined together to run headlong up the fence line, calling and calling.

     Bison make a deep-throated rumble and many other sounds. They were making a very distinctive bison call, the call of a mother cow searching for her calf.

     We watched them run all the way to the fence corner about a mile away before they charged back, calling constantly, and surrounded Little Mother again.

     A buffalo conversation ensued, the cows talking softly to one another for around 10 minutes. It took another 30 minutes before the four cows started to wander away from Little Mother, and we headed to the vet clinic.

     When we returned Little Mother was still there by the fence. It took two days before she fully left the place where her calf had been killed.

     Why? Was Little Mother heart-broken?

     When the calf’s body disappeared, did Sister Crazy Horse lead a group of friends in a frantic search for a calf that she assumed had risen and wandered off?

     That’s what it looked like.

    But is that what happened?

     We have to be careful not to engage in “anthropomorphizing,” the human tendency to attribute human emotions to animals when they do not exist.

    Kathleen and W. Michael Gear, Wyoming Archeologists, have raised bison for 25 years. They caution people about “anthropomorphizing”—the human tendency to attribute human emotions to animals when they do not exist. Courtesy of authors.

    As anthropologist Barbara King from the College of William & Mary notes in her excellent book, How Animals Grieve:

    “Occasionally the pull of anthropomorphism may overwhelm scientists’ normal caution in reporting animal responses to death.”

    The problem of course is that our culture suffers from The Bambi Syndrome. We see the Bambi Syndrome in children’s movies and especially books for children, in which animals are portrayed as talking in human voices, laughing, singing and traipsing off on mythic adventures packed together in automobiles.

    In fact, we live in terror that someday we’ll see a children’s book with bison riding off into the sunset on motorcycles singing “Oh, Happy Day!”

    The lessons taught by such books and movies are disturbing because they lead children to believe that animals feel and think exactly as we do, which seems unlikely.

    The truth is that interpreting animal behavior is a challenge. Not all animal responses to death are the same and scientists can be overly enthusiastic when it comes to assigning reasons for behavior.

    Beautiful bison calf at Red Canyon Ranch. Courtesy of authors.

    For example, in 2014 Dr. Teresa Iglesias from the University of California at Davis published an article in the journal Animal Behavior titled:

    “Western scrub jay funerals: cacophonous aggregations in response to dead conspecifics.”

    In the article Iglesias noes that scrub jays flock around dead companions and vocalize—they call to each other raucously.

    Is that really a funeral? No caregiving rituals were involved, at least not that a human could determine. Were the jays merely noting the death and warning each other that danger might be nearby? Or was the flocking and vocalizing an expression of grief at the death of a loved companion?

    In her book Through a Window, anthropologist Jane Goodall documents the heart-wrenching story of Flint, a young chimpanzee who refused to eat after the death of his mother.

    Flint declined and died, apparently from grief.

    Other examples noted by King are instructive: “. . . when Eleanor, the dying matriarch of an elephant family, collapsed, a matriarch named Grace from another family immediately came to her aid, using her tusks to support Eleanor back onto her feet.

    “When Eleanor fell again, Grace stayed with her, pushing on her body for at least an hour, even though her own family moved on.

    “Then Eleanor died. During the course of the week that followed, females from five elephant families, including Eleanor’s own, showed a keen interest in the body. Some individuals appeared upset, pulling at or nudging the body with trunk and feet or rocking back and forth while standing over it.”

    It has been well documented that elephants return over and over for years to caress the bones of dead matriarchs.

    Also herds of giraffes guard the body of dead infants to protect them from scavengers while they apparently mourn with the mother, and ducks lay their heads on the bodies of dead companions.

    King notes another interesting example. In 2015 on a research vessel off the coast of Greece, researchers watched a bottlenose dolphin pushing her dead infant away from the observer’s boat, apparently protecting it from the boat.

    Over and over again she pushed the calf with her snout and pectoral fins. As the baby’s body swelled in the hot sun and began to decay, the mother continued to care for the corpse by removing pieces of dead skin and loose flesh.

    The other dolphins, about 50, approached to watch but didn’t disturb the mother, who refused to eat for two days while she “cared” for her dead infant.

    Are these examples of profound mourning over the deaths of loved ones? What is a “death ritual” when it comes to animals? Can such rituals be identified?

    Let us give you one last example: A few years ago our oldest cow, Lange, died at the age of 26. We had done everything we could for her but to no avail. The vet said her heart was failing.

    Lange had a warm personality. By all criteria that humans can determine, she was apparently loved by her herd.

    When she lay down for the last time, her youngest daughter, Susie Q and her best friend Clover were with her. Susie Q and Clover often moved a short distance away to graze, but continually returned throughout the morning to check on Lange and lick her.

    When it was clear that Lange wasn’t getting up again, we drove out, blocked the herd’s view with the truck and ended her struggle. When we drove away Susie Q was the first to come back to the body. She licked her mother all over, then Clover did the same thing.

    As the day progressed every member of the herd came to lick Lange’s body and graze beside her. Watching them had a profound, even arresting, impact on us.

    At sunset, when they seemed to be finished caring for Lange the herd started to move away, and we went out with the tractor to pick her up and take her to another pasture. Lange’s coat was completely clean of every spot of blood and bodily fluids and covered with tongue marks from intensive licking.

    As we carried her away the herd followed us. They were quiet. Unusually quiet. If we were describing human behavior we’d call it deep mourning. That stunned silence you feel when you know someone you love is gone forever.

    Susie Q and Clover stayed together for three days, separated from the herd, grazing side-by-side before they rejoined the herd.

    Did we witness a buffalo funeral? At the risk of sounding “overly enthusiastic,” our answer is maybe. At worst we’re doing the animals a disservice by misunderstanding their behavior. It’s difficult to define grief in another species.

    Bison family group at Red Canyon Ranch. Courtesy of the authors.

    What are the scientific criteria? How should we determine them?

     Most scientists agree on a two-part definition: “First, the animals in question should ‘choose to spend time together beyond survival-oriented behaviors;’ and second, ‘when one animal dies, the survivor alters his or her normal behavioral routine.’” (Nancy Lambert, Scientific American, June 25, 2013).

     Though much of bison behavior remains a mystery, it seems clear to us that their responses to the death of a member of the herd meet that definition.

     Buffalo love and they grieve—which was undoubtedly noted long ago by the earliest inhabitants of the Western frontier.

     Sources

    Batdorff, Allison. “Bison ranch owners swap animal tales,” Billings (Montana) Gazette, Jun 3, 2005.

    King, Barbara. How Animals Grieve. Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 2014.

    Lambert, Nancy. When Doves Cry: Scientific American Explores Grief in Animals,” Tor.com, June 25, 2013.

     Reprinted from Western Writers of America Roundup Magazine, Apr 2020. Michael and Kathleen Gear, Guest Editors, are Wyoming Archeologists and writers. For more

    information visit the following:

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kathleen_O%27Neal_Gear and

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/W._Michael_Gear.

    Kathleen O’Neal Gear and W. Michael Gear

    Buttes, Badlands & Buffalo Ranges

    Buttes, Badlands & Buffalo Ranges

    Buffalo Stories on La Rivierre Grande

    What is the future for our beloved Buffalo?

    Recently we gathered a small group around my kitchen table—a few people interested in what we can do with all our buffalo information. Informally we call ourselves Brainstormers.

    We had just finished a successful tour of our historic buffalo sites here at home that we had arranged with the BSC Bison Symposium.

    When Bismarck State College decided to put on a Bison Symposium led by their retiring director Dr. Larry Skogen, we got involved. In fact we may have helped inspire the whole thing.

    After all, Larry grew up in Hettinger, where his parents ran a hardware store. He knew something of our buffalo history.

    By this time we had uncovered several even more interesting facts about buffalo living on these lands. It wasn’t just the 3 last great buffalo hunts that happened here. There were more stories. One by one, they began revealing themselves.

    Marvelous stories. Word of mouth heroics, problems and successes. Survival stories.

    It was like peeling an onion, one more layer beneath another as layers unfolded, one by one.

    Shadehill Buffalo Jump

    For instance: The excavation of our buffalo jump at Shadehill revealed how primitive hunters likely used it as long as 7,000 years ago. Wow!

    Dakota people don’t boast and brag much. So we dared not claim Shadehill had been a buffalo Jump. Even though we believed that’s what the layers of buffalo bones on the face of the cliff meant.

    One layer stretched 12 feet thick all the way across the 100-foot cliff up and down the river! And below that was another 4-foot layer.

    Shadehill Buffalo Jump is now mostly under the Lake waters. The bones are long gone.

    Then all of a sudden we noticed that South Dakota Game, Fish and Parks, which manages recreation at Shadehill Lake had put up a new sign—of buffalo jumping off the cliff.

     And we discovered 3 teams of archaeologists had reported their findings here—one each from the University of ND, SD Game, Fish and Parks and the US Forest Service.

     UND even published a book of their findings. Local County Agent Vince Gunn—who has lived his entire life across Shadehill Lake from the jump—lent us his copy.

    Our jump was real. There was an archaeology book and official sign verifying it.

    The bones from Shadehill—and other Buffalo Jumps—were bulldozed out and shipped to the west coast munitions plants to be used for explosives in wartime. Photo courtesy NPS.

    Unfortunately, the buffalo bones that once showed in two deep layers on the face of the cliff were gone. The last bones were bulldozed out and hauled west by train to manufacture explosives during World War II—as happened to many other buffalo jumps across the US and Canada.

     But our jump was real.

    Duprees Rescued Young Buffalo Calves

    But wait! There’s still more.

    Not just the last great hunts and near extermination. Our tragic buffalo story did not end there.

    Most marvelous of all—was the miracle of how the buffalo evaded extinction.

    Fortunately, William Hornaday was wrong—he didn’t write the last chapter on buffalo after all in 1889! LA Huffman didn’t shoot photos of the last buffalo lying dead across the Plains in 1880!

    Instead, a few people from across the United States and Canada rescued some young buffalo calves and nourished them into viable herds.

    The Duprees rescued 5 calves and perhaps added others brought into their herd by friends. Photo SD GFP, Chris Hull.

     We were happy to discover one of the 5 rescuing families turned out to be a local Native family. In fact 3 of the 5 rescuing families had Native American roots. They knew how much the buffalo meant to their culture.

     All 5 family groups were western ranchers and had hunted buffalo.

     Just before the end, the Duprees rescued a few newborn calves on the South Grand River. The Dupree brothers and maybe their sisters too—theirs was a large family—had traveled some 50 or 60 miles from their fur-trading homes at the mouth of Cherry Creek on the Cheyenne River—a two-day trip in the spring to the Slim Buttes with team and wagon.

     At home they found cows to mother the young calves. Pete Dupree must have done things right to avoid the typically high death loss of orphan buffalo calves.

     For many other would-be rescuers, the small calves died of starvation before they received the nourishment they needed. Captured buffalo cows and older calves simply stiffened out and died instead of giving in to “being saved.”

     Near the jump I even discovered a possible Box Canyon that a small group of ancient hunters might have used successfully to trap a few buffalo before horses arrived on the Grande.

     We had the right pieces for another book.

    A Book to Celebrate Buffalo Saga

    My next book would tell the entire story. And it all happened right here in our own community—the Hettinger ND and Lemmon-Bison SD area.

    It would celebrate the buffalo and honor the Native Americans who integrated them into their own culture. The thousands of years when Native people of the Plains hunted on foot and hauled all their possessions with them in dog travois.

    The exciting arrival of the horse culture that meant Native people could travel faster and hunt more efficiently. How the buffalo were almost exterminated. And how they thrive today.

    Pete Dupree’s herd kept growing in the same area they were rescued—on the South Grand.
    By the time he died in 1898 his buffalo herd had increased to 83. They were sold to Scotty Philip who also ran livestock on reservation land.

    Gradually they were replaced by Native American tribal herds and the private herds we see in this same area today.

    Noted leaders including President Theodore Roosevelt developed sanctuaries for Bison to live and passed laws to protect them—and Roosevelt the conservationist earned his place on Mount Rushmore in the Black Hills.

    Yet Roosevelt and other easterners could never have done what they did to help buffalo survive without the efforts of calf rescuers in the west.

    Let us never forget who saved the buffalo on the ground.

    Ordinary, local people. If not for them, we’d have no live buffalo to celebrate today.

    I didn’t want people to forget our Buffalo History.

    Pioneer knowledge can be forgot so easily. For example, the disappearance of buffalo bones from our Buffalo Jump at Shadehill. Where did they go?

    The archeologists who came from the university apparently didn’t extend their research to the know-how of local people who live here. The new SD sign read briefly, “Sadly, the site slid into the reservoir.”

    However, an early settler Don Merriman who lived there, now long-gone, told me what really happened to the bones. During the early 1940s and the beginning of World War II, he was there when his neighbor who owned that land, bulldozed the bones out of the cliff and hauled wagon loads to the train station.

    From there they were shipped to factories on the West Coast, the phosphorus extracted for the manufacture of explosives.

    The last line on the sign for the Shadehill Buffalo Jump read, “Sadly, the site slid into the reservoir.” Photo FMB.

    La Rivierre Grande

    Between the North and South forks of the Grand River, a big chunk of North and South Dakota gets watered.

    In researching the river’s history, John, one of our Brainstormers, found early French fur traders spelled it with a final “e.” In fact in their journals he says they put the river first: “La rivierre Grande.”

    This may have been even before our lands were owned by the United States—with the Louisiana Purchase from the French in 1803.

    The name Grande intrigued our Brainstormers. As we talked about what we have, we discovered the magic of our history, especially on the Grand River, or La rivierre Grande as we started calling it.

    We realized this river has always been a place where live Buffalo graze along its banks.

    Buffalo have always grazed the meandering banks of the North and South Grande since time immemorial—and probably always will. Photo FMB.

    In fact, there’s never been a time when buffalo did not thrive in La rivierre Grande area.

    It is one of the few places in North America—maybe the only place—where someone saved calves on their homeland and kept them there. Most others caught their calves while hunting elsewhere.

    The Dupree buffalo always grazed the banks of La rivierre Grande and with the cultural importance of today’s Native American tribal herds, probably always will. Photo NPS.

    A Book to Celebrate Buffalo Saga

    My next book would tell the entire story. And it all happened right here in our own community—the Hettinger ND and Lemmon-Bison SD area 

    It would celebrate the buffalo and honor the Native Americans who integrated them into their own culture. The thousands of years when Native people of the Plains hunted on foot and hauled all their possessions with them in dog travois.

    The exciting arrival of the horse culture that meant Native people could travel faster and hunt more efficiently. How the buffalo were almost exterminated. And how they thrive today.

    But one day my former editor and co-worker Kendra Rosencrans, home from Seattle on vacation, looked at the contents of my planned book and burst my bubble.

    “People don’t read books anymore!” she said.

    Ouch! Can that be true?

    Well, I took her advice and finished the Self-Guided Tour first, “Buffalo Trails in the Dakota Buttes.” An action book with 8 historic sites in our area and 2 more sites to visit— tribal herds and the Buffalo Museum in Jamestown, ND. The full buffalo story!

    First the Self-Guided Tour—Buffalo Trails in the Dakota Buttes; then Buffalo Heartbeats Across the Plains—the rest of the story.

    The next year we published “Buffalo Heartbeats Across the Plains.” More stories. It won three National Awards, including a Spur Award.

    BSC Bison Symposium

    Bismarck State College took on the June Bison Symposium with enthusiasm. What other University institution has dared to put on a 3-day event that includes all we put into this one?

    Academic research. Native American voices telling how their culture is intimately bound up with the buffalo. History tours of where it all happened. A close encounter with live buffalo on the move. And a lot of great bison food for everyone, including a final Bison Stroganoff dinner.

    The second day the symposium visitors came on our tour to the Hettinger-Lemmon area. About 80 people rode the 2 travel buses that day to our special Historic Buffalo sites.

    At the Sitting Bull Last Stand hunt site Kevin Locke and Dakota Goodhouse, Lakota storytellers, told about features and plants on these lands—once part of the Great Sioux Reservation—that had special meaning for their culture. Photo Jim Kambeitz.

    Riding along on the buses from Bismarck were Lakota storytellers Kevin Locke and Dakota Goodhouse. Our Native American friends know every prominent butte for miles around. This is Lakota country and it seems they can tell a story about each butte and landmark we see. We loved hearing those stories in their own voices.

    People on the tour said they enjoyed everything—the stories, and driving among 400 live buffalo while the manager, Jim Strand circled his herd with the feed wagon.

    Herd manager Jim Strand came on the bus to explain how he cares for the big Johnson herd of 400. The yellow circle in the foreground marks a buffalo wallow used by the bulls to get rid of their winter hair and parasites, as well as to mark their territory in rut. Photo by JK.

    The buffalo came running, grunting and snorting and surrounded us—safe inside the buses.

    The Symposium ended with a delicious bison Stroganoff dinner in the Dakota Buttes Museum in Hettinger and a bus ride back to Bismarck.

    “When will you do this again?” the visitors wanted to know. “What’s next?”

    Ours was a compelling story. And I didn’t want people to forget our Buffalo History.

    But Wow! We were pretty exhausted—what did we need to do now?

    Brainstorming around the Kitchen Table

    By this time the Brainstormers were meeting every two weeks or so around my kitchen table.

    We had lots of good ideas—so many they seemed overwhelming. Build a Buffalo Center. Bring live buffalo into a nearby pasture. Sponsor tours. Pull together public events. Encourage more Bison research.  involve children and young adults. Add teaching curricula that incudes Native American voices telling their stories.

    Dramatic exhibits in bison centers inspired us, such as this Buffalo Jump in the many-storied Canadian buffalo center built into a hill at Head-Smashed-in Buffalo Jump.

    We’d need a lot of help—volunteers to do all that work. Where will we start? Who will help?

    Yes, we have great volunteers. But can we expect them to support one more time-consuming project?

    Ours is a small town. One of our concerns, seems like Hettinger gets a bit smaller every year!

    Everything that’s innovative here runs on volunteer help. Fire trucks, ambulances, Hospice, Health aids, Clothes Closet, Church officials and all kinds of support groups.

    And what if we build a Center, spend all that money—and nobody comes?

    But what if we don’t? Will we eventually lose our history again?

    Build a Better Website

    We have buffalo stories worth telling. But we’re already stretched too thin. What we’d love is tourists coming here—appreciating the wonderful places and stories we have.

    But how can we make it happen? As our Brainstorming group discussed it, our mayor Jim–a very perceptive young man—said:

    “Wait! We need to have a good Website. That’s how people get their information today.”

    He quickly convinced us. A website is the first thing we need, he told us. But it has to be good!

    So Val—a former County Extension Leader and Consumer Science teacher—and I sat down together for an afternoon, again at my kitchen table—and listed all the things we wanted on our website.

    We zeroed in on the best website we could find for ideas and found some amazing government sites. Sophisticated. Lots of great photos—surprisingly with only small amounts of text! Clean and enticing.

    Francie M Berg

    Author of the Buffalo Tales &Trails blog

    Buttes, Badlands & Buffalo Ranges

    Buttes, Badlands and Buffalo Ranges

    Big buffalo herds ranged over the buttes and badlands of Monana and the western Dakotas until the 1880s. Photo by Jim Kambeitz.

    My interest in buffalo began when I rode the buttes and badlands of our ranch east of Miles City, MT as a kid.

     One time my younger sister Anne and I found a buffalo skull.

    The snow melted early that spring, sending rushing waters to flush out dry creek beds.

    Riding the higher reaches of our range we were looking for a lost heifer.

    In a glint of bright sunlight we saw something peeking out from under a sagebrush that had been partly torn loose from a sandy bank.

     “What’s that?” Anne circled her horse across the gravel creek bed.

     “Looks like a bone—a horn.”

    Sliding off our horses we scrambled up the bank for a closer look.

     Yes! Not just a horn—but a horn solidly attached to the rest of the head. As we freed it from the scraggly sagebrush tangle, out came a nearly perfect skull with stout curved horns—gleaming white in the sun. We hefted the weight of it, bigger and bulkier than any skull we had ever seen.

    Which Skull is best??

     

    A relic of long ago—a buffalo skull. The black horn caps had loosened and washed away in the 70-some years since wild buffalo had roamed these ranges.

    In the 1940s it had been only 70 years since the huge herds of buffalo grazed those ranges.

    We’d seen the famous photos of dead buffalo, slaughtered across this very range by hide hunters, as photographed by L.A. Huffman. He set up his studio in our town, Miles City, just in time to record that final kill.

    LA Huffman arrived in Miles City just in time to film the last slaughter of the great herds. Photo by LA Huffman, 1880.

    Safe on Great Sioux Reservation, 1880

    The southern herd was already gone.

    Buffalo didn’t migrate north in the fall. But by all accounts, these last buffalo did. This last desperate herd of around a hundred thousand buffalo weren’t seeking warmer climate that fall, but safety.

    Blazing guns right behind, they trekked up from Wyoming and hit the little cow town of Miles City on the run.

    When they hit the Yellowstone River, half the big herd plunged in, swam across and travelled north—right into the fierce guns of hundreds of white and Native hide hunters. They didn’t survive long. Within months all were gone.

    Some wild instinct led the other half—the last big herd of many millions—more directly northeast—on our side of the Yellowstone, the south side.

    Apparently, they turned east where the Powder River and O’Fallon Creek flowed into the Yellowstone River, then followed those plateaus and valleys into Dakota Territory.

    There they found safety for a time in the pine hills of the Slim Buttes. And just beyond that, onto the Great Sioux Indian Reservation.

    The last big herds found safety for a time on the Great Sioux Indian Reservation where white hide hunters were not allowed. Photo by Kathy Berg Walsh.

    This was about 150 miles east of Miles City on the border of what became North and South Dakota, where these last 50,000 from the great northern herd made their last stand.

    That big old sagebrush stood along their trail. We’d ridden past it dozens of times. Anne and I wrapped the skull in a jacket and tied it behind my saddle.

    At home we cleared a place in Mom’s flower garden near our front door, next to her yellow rosebush.

    Hungry wolf packs followed the wild buffalo herds and picked off the old and weak who did not keep up. Alone, they didn’t last long. Catlin sketch from David Dary.

    Many times our family and visitors speculated and argued over how that old bull had lived and died.

    Searching Local History

    Years later when our family moved to Hettinger ND the summer of 1966, my husband Bert as the new veterinarian was eager to help local ranchers care for their cattle, horses, sheep, sheep dogs. And, yes, a few herds of buffalo.

    We didn’t know we were coming to the place where those very buffalo from Miles City had made their last stand in 1880.

    We built our home at the edge of town with barn, corrals and 40 acres of pasture. We also didn’t know that my grandparents—the Tom Barretts had staked out their first homestead claim on Lodgepole Creek where it flowed into the South Grand River. They lived in a dugout in the side of a hill.

    As newcomers to Hettinger we heard a few rumblings from old-timers. “The last big buffalo hunts were here,” they told us.

    “What? What do you mean?” we asked. “The last hunts where? In North America? Or in North Dakota?”

    “I don’t know—that’s what they say,” came the inevitable answer.

    I wanted to know more. What did that mean? I started a search. I wanted to read it in a book.

    Sure enough, several books held promise—claiming special knowledge of the very last hunts. But their “last hunt” always turned out to be the worst scenario—big guns, big slaughter, rotting carcasses left all across the Plains—in Kansas or somewhere else even farther south.

    Everyone knew that shameful history, the scar on our national wildlife story. Depressing.

    Three Last Hunts

    Then one day, browsing our local library, I came across a little-known book of memoirs, My Friend the Indian, by James McLaughlin, Indian Agent at Ft. Yates.

    Flipping pages, back to front, I found myself reading an amazing tale in a chapter called “The Great Buffalo Hunt.”

    Suddenly there it was—all laid out, step by step—the Hiddenwood hunt in complete and fascinating detail by a man who was here and on that hunt.

    McLaughlin described the Native march out of Fort Yates, all resplendent in their best hunting attire.  

    Six hundred mounted riders wove in and out among those walking and riding in buckboard wagons, their prancing horses painted in traditional ways, as they struck out for the ancient buffalo ranges 100 miles away—to Hiddenwood Cliff right in our Hettinger community.

    McLaughlin hunted here, with 2,000 Native Americans, right outside our living room window, riding up Hiddenwood Creek, which runs through our town.

    Later another jewel appeared in a dusty collection. The memoirs of a Congregational Missionary Thomas Riggs, stationed at Oahe offered another Buffalo Hunt section.

    Again, an amazing story, told by an articulate and sympathetic man who was there—with a small band of traditional Lakota hunters on a long, cold winter hunting adventure in the pine hills of the Slim Buttes.

    The missionary Thomas Riggs spent three months with traditional Lakota hunters on one of the last great hunts in the Slim Buttes. Photo courtesy Montana Hist Soc.

    Riggs described the trip—religious traditions held along the way. Thanks and prayers to Mother Earth and to the Buffalo themselves for their generosity in caring for their human relatives.

    Both these hunts were traditional, conducted with religious fervor and ancient ceremony. Both fit perfectly into William Hornaday’s well-documented history of 1889, The Extermination of the American Bison.  

    William Hornaday reported the final hunt of the big herds happened when Sitting Bull and his band arrived in Oct 12 and 13, 1883. “There was not a hoof left!” he wrote. Photo by J Schmidt, NPS.

    After the wild herds were gone the Smithsonian Museum sent Hornaday—their leading taxidermist—out west to report how this buffalo destruction could have possibly happened and to bring back some museum-worthy carcasses if possible.

    In researching his book, Hornaday really thought he was writing about the final hours of what he called “this magnificent animal.” Determined to get it right, he spared no effort in contacting every possible source of buffalo knowledge, from Army officers at far-flung western forts to fur traders, railroaders, hide hunters and cowboys.

    Hornaday learned that the end came right here, but offered few details. Except he wrote that Sitting Bull was right here at the end and his band killed the last 1,200 buffalo. He even had the exact dates—October 12 and 13, 1883.

    These last buffalo hunt details were virtually unknown in 1995. Just word of mouth stories from pioneers who settled here on what had been once designated Indian reservation lands by treaty.

    Someone needed to get all this together on paper. But it seemed no one was interested. This history would soon be forgotten. If I didn’t write it, who would?

    From these three sources came our small book, in which I brought together for the first time the full story of the last stand of the American buffalo and their last dramatic moments The Last Great Buffalo Hunts: Traditional Hunts in 1880 to 1883 by Teton Lakota People.

    Our Dakota Buttes Visitors Council of which I had been a charter member since arriving in Hettinger agreed to pay for printing and distribution.

    We sponsored free tours of our Last Hunt Sites. Photo at left the Sitting Bull Site. At right Historic Site Hiddenwood Cliff can be seen in distance at right. Photos KBW.

    We started taking local people on bus tours of our three Historic Last Great Traditional Native Hunts. For the first time ever people learned the full story of the last stand of the American buffalo and these last dramatic moments.

    Buffalo have always grazed these western lands. Courtesy SD Tourism.

    It was a heroic legacy told by Native Americans and early settlers. Until then, somehow this final triumph of the buffalo saga fell through the cracks in our national and state histories.

    End of story.

    But wait! There’s more.

    ______

    NEXT

     

    Francie M Berg

    Author of the Buffalo Tales &Trails blog

    Part 4 Metis: The Métis Bison Hunt, by Father Belcourt

    Part 4 Metis: The Métis Bison Hunt, by Father Belcourt

    In 1845, Father G. A. Belcourt went on a bison hunt with the Métis (MEH tee or MEH tees) people of the parish where he had established a mission 13 years earlier. Soon after the hunt, Belcourt wrote to a friend in Quebec (Canada) and described the hunt in great detail. Following is his description of the hunt.

     “The hunters gathered at Pembina where the 55 hunters assembled a train of 213 carts, 300 horses and 100 oxen. Their families, 309 people in all, went along, too.

    Father George Antoine Belcourt was a French Canadian priest who established missions among the Chippewas and Métis of the Red River and Turtle Mountains. His letter of 1845 on the bison hunt describes the method of the hunt and the processing and preserving of the meat and other parts of the bison. Father Belcourt’s letter also tells how European American culture was beginning to have an impact on Métis culture. SHSND 0986-04.

    “Carts carried a thousand pounds of gear including firewood, lodge poles for their tipis, drying frames and hide stretchers, as well as food. They were heading into the ‘boundless prairies’ of Dakota where they would have to bring everything they needed, including firewood.

    “Their route took them south of the Turtle Mountains towards Devils Lake, the Sheyenne River, and west toward Dogden Butte (Maison du Chien).

    “Scouts traveled ahead on horseback looking for good places to hunt and camp. The scouts rejoined the main group in the evening, bringing information on bison herds ahead.”

    Soon, two young men returned to camp with fresh bison meat. Father Belcourt was offered the tongue, a delicacy, rather than the meat of the bulls which was more abundant, but likely to cause “mal de boeuf,” or indigestion.

    Metis hunters rode to the hunt with a loaded muzzle-loading gun and four more lead shot balls in their mouths. They re-loaded in the field by spitting the ball into the muzzle (front end) of the gun. Rapid re-loading meant that the hunters brought home more game and were able to protect themselves from charging bison bulls. Drawing by Vern Erickson, North Dakota History 38:3, page 340.

    When they spotted a herd of bulls, Belcourt and a group of hunters approached to within 500 yards. They slowed their horses to a quiet walk so they could get near the animals without scaring them.

    The bulls noticed the hunters and began to threaten them, stamping and tossing the earth with their horns. Other bulls watched the hunters and bellowed.

    When they were close enough, a hunter gave the signal to ride their horses rapidly toward the herd. The bulls took off running “with surprising speed.”

    Using guns, the hunters fired into the herd, killing some animals and wounding others. A half-hour later, the hunt on this herd was over. But a cloud of dust on the horizon signaled the presence of bison cows, and the hunters took off after them.”

    Once the bison cow or bull had been killed, it was set up on its stomach and the hind legs stretched out behind. Drawing by Vern Erickson, North Dakota History 38:3, page 344.

    Women then skinned the carcass and removed the meat, fat, bones and organs that were useful to them. The meat was dried for long-term storage. The fat was mixed with powdered dried meat and dried berries to make pemmican.

    In that year of 1845, when Father Belcourt attended the hunt, Metis hunters brought home the meat and by-products of 1,776 bison cows.

    The hunters were excited and their well-trained horses wanted to charge into the cow herd, but approaching the cows was the most dangerous part of the hunt.

    The hunters had to ride through the bulls that were bunched near the cows. If a bull gored a hunter’s horse and knocked the rider to the ground, the hunter would be killed by the bull’s horns or feet.

    The hunters carried muzzle-loading guns. They approached a herd with one shot prepared and carried 4 other balls of lead shot in their mouths.

    They re-loaded their guns while riding their horses at great speed. They dropped the gunpowder into the muzzle and then spit a ball down the muzzle. A good hunter could load and shoot five times in the time it took to ride 100 yards.

    On the first day, the hunters in Belcourt’s group killed 169 cows. In four days hunt, they killed and butchered 628 bison. By the end of the hunt, 1,776 cows had been killed.

    Men and women worked together to butcher the carcass. After removing the hide, they took the hump (part of the back bone just below the neck) which was considered to have the best meat.

    They also took the meat from the ribs and back bones, hips and shoulders. They removed the fat, the paunch or rumen (stomach), the kidneys, the bladder and the tongue.

    The women cut the meat into strips about a quarter of an inch thick. These strips were hung on the drying frames for two or three days.

    By then, the meat was so dry it could be rolled up and packed into large bundles.

    Some of the less desirable pieces of dried meat were laid on a tanned hide and pounded into a powder. The meat powder was mixed with fat and poured into a rawhide bag called a taureaux (a French word for “bulls”). The mixture was called pemmican.

    The Métis often added dried fruit into the mix. The resulting food was rich in nutrition and would keep almost indefinitely.

    By the middle of October, the hunters were ready to pack for the return home.

    The hunt resulted in 228 taureaux, 1,213 bales of dried meat, 166 sacks of fat (weighing 200 pounds each), and 556 bladders of marrow (12 pounds each).

    Belcourt estimated the bison products to be worth £1700 ($218,179 today). The people had enough meat and pemmican for their winter food supply.

    Father Belcourt concluded his letter with a commentary on the discipline of the hunt.

    If a hunter started out alone, he might kill three cows and scare away the rest of the herd. He noted that in recent years, Métis hunts had lacked organization and leadership.

    An organized, well-disciplined group of hunters could take 300 cows. Belcourt believed that religious leadership led to harmony and productivity on a bison hunt.

    The Métis hunted bison in much the same way that their Chippewa relatives did, though they apparently lacked the tightly controlled organization that was necessary for a successful hunt.

    Father Belcourt encouraged other priests to hunt with Métis of their parishes because, he believed, a priest could encourage the hunters to work well together.

    Father Belcourt recorded an important part of Métis culture, and he also recorded the ways in which European American culture was bringing change to the people of the northern Great Plains.

    Explorers and the Fur Trade

    Fur traders entered the region that became North Dakota around 1800.

    A few independent traders may have entered the region earlier, but Alexander Henry of Canada on the lower Red River (1799) and American Robert Dickson on Lake Traverse (1800) were the first to build trading posts that drew on the rich fur resources of eastern North Dakota.

    The Hudson’s Bay Company and the North West Company competed with each other by building posts very close to one another.

    They also tried to take business away from each other by offering better deals to their Indian trade partners.

    Both companies engaged in over-trapping beavers to drive the other company out of the region. They succeeded in nearly destroying the beaver population of the region and in degrading the cultures of many Indian tribes.

    Many smaller companies entered the fur trade, but most were eager to sell their business to a larger company after a year or two of tough competition.

    In 1821, the beaver trade came to an end when European fashions in hats changed from felt made from beaver fur to silk.

    The fur trade was both very good and very bad for American Indians who participated in the trade. The fur trade gave Indians steady and reliable access to manufactured goods, but the trade also forced them into dependency on European Americans and created an epidemic of alcoholism.

    Indians who traded with European Americans received all kinds of manufactured goods in exchange for furs. Indians sometimes re-used the goods in ways that better suited them. These leggings were made by a Lakota woman, Anne Good Eagle. She constructed the leggings with a cotton cloth flour sack from the Royal Milling Company and leather. She then decorated them with dyed porcupine quills. The leggings would have been tied around a woman’s legs. Only the decorated leather would show below her skirt. SHSND Museum collections. 1986.234.222

    There is no doubt that knives with steel blades, iron cooking kettles, guns, hoes with metal blades and other manufactured goods made life a lot easier for Indians. Though the trade items saved time for Indian women, much of that time was now given to cleaning and stretching beaver pelts or bison hides. There was a shift in the household economies of Indian families that, at first, seemed to produce greater security and efficiency.

    American Indians often re-made trade goods into something they found useful.

    For instance, manufactured pipe stems made of bone were intended to be used with corncob pipes. However, the Poncas used the pipe stems as beads.

    The style spread to the tribes of the northern Great Plains and they became very popular for use in elaborately decorated breastplates. The pipe stems came to be known as hair-pipe beads.

    The young Dakota women in this picture are wearing breastplate necklaces made of bone hair pipe beads (light colored) and glass beads (dark colored). The hair pipe beads were originally designed to be pipe stems for corn cob pipes. Ponca Indians decided to use them as beads. The manufacturer, taking the new market into account, re-styled the hollow bone pieces as beads. The new use spread to the northern Plains where people of many tribes adopted the design. SHSND 0009-26.

    Quill work. Traditional decorations like this horse brow band were made from porcupine quills. In the early 1800s, traders brought dyes to the northern Great Plains and women began to dye quills to make beautiful designs. SHSND Museum collections, 1882.

    Colorful glass beads were a common item in the fur trade. Native women used beads to achieve a high level of artistic expression.

    Beautiful designs stitched in colored beads graced their clothing, their moccasins, and ceremonial goods such as pipe stems, blankets and saddle bags.

    Women still decorated objects with porcupine quills, now colored with dyes they received in trade, but increasingly more items were decorated with intricate beadwork designs.

    Though traders might have thought that glass beads were a cheap item to exchange for beaver pelts, women applied their special design skills in beadwork.

    Some women were able to trade their beading skills with other members of their tribe for food, horses or other things they needed.

    This velvet vest was decorated with glass beads in a traditional Chippewa/Métis floral design. Glass beads were an important trade item. Indian women exchanged furs for glass beads and other manufactured goods. Glass beads were used to decorate clothing and other items. The most intricate designs were made for special occasions. SHSND Museum. Collections, 1987.84.1

    Indian women were important agents in the fur trade. Men usually trapped beavers, but women scraped the flesh off the fresh hide, stretched it, and properly prepared the pelts for trade.

    They often made the decisions about which company they would trade with. They also demanded the best rate of exchange.

    They sometimes lost control of the trade when a trader, such as Alexander Henry, forced the trade to go in his direction.

    During one visit to the Mandan villages, Henry fought with the women who owed their furs to the XY Company in payment for their debts. Henry finally won, but he had to force the women to give up the furs.

    The women then had to acquire more furs (and work harder) to pay their debt to the XY traders.

    Indian women were important agents in the fur trade. Native women scraped the flesh off the fresh hide, stretched it and properly prepared the pelts for trade. They often made the decisions about which company they would trade with. They also demanded the best rate of exchange.

    Some Indian women chose to marry European American traders in the fashion of the country.

    This generally means that these marriages were not recognized by law or religion. While many marriages brought loving couples together for the rest of their lives, other marriages were short-lived.

    The children of mixed marriages in the Red River region formed a new culture called Métis. The mixed-blood children of marriages in other tribes usually grew up with their mother’s people.

    Traders, especially those working for the North West Company, often used liquor to persuade Indians to trade. Sometimes, liquor was used to cheat Indians out of their furs. Liquor diminished the capacity of American Indians to make good business decisions.

    Indians and trappers who drank too much got into fights; sometimes the violence led to murder. Though U.S. law (and the Hudson’s Bay Company) prohibited the transport of intoxicating liquors into Indian country, it was difficult to enforce this law.

    If an Army officer found liquor on a fur trade boat, he would destroy all of the kegs, but there were not enough officers to patrol river traffic.

    Many relationships between traders and their Indian partners were friendly and respectful.

    Indian tribes and fur companies enjoyed mutual benefits from the fur trade. Indians obtained manufactured goods such as guns, knives, cloth and beads that made their lives easier. The traders got furs, food and a way of life many of them enjoyed. 

    However, competition among the tribes and among the fur companies created more conflict than peace. In addition, the fur trade led to the destruction of individuals and tribes even after the fur business ended.

    Fur traders gathered information about Indian country that drew farmers, miners and railroads to the northern Plains.

    The people who followed the fur traders were usually most interested in taking land from Indians. The Native Americans’ ability to resist was diminished by alcohol, disease and dependency on trade goods, as well as broken treaties with the US government.

    After successful buffalo hunting in the plains of Canada, Montana or Dakota Territory through the 1850s, long caravans of Metis often travelled on to St Paul or Winnipeg to trade buffalo products through the fur trade. These included hides, fresh meat, cured pemmican made of dried, pounded meat mixed with melted fat, and fine beadwork which were exchanged for such needs and desires as tools, guns, ammunition, housewares, cloth, blankets, beads and alcohol. By 1880 plains bison were nearly gone from Canada and Montana, as well as having disappeared from the southern plains by 1875. The last herds were killed in what is now North and South Dakota in traditional hunts on the Great Sioux Reservation by Lakota and Dakota Sioux.

    The fur trade was a business that made profits for the owners and many of the traders. But it was also a cultural meeting ground where all of the participants were on equal footing. Everyone had something of value to trade.

    However, in the long run, the fur trade was also destructive for the American Indian tribes of this region.

    Many people forgot traditional skills for making things such as knives or hoes that they could now purchase with furs. Traders brought deadly diseases to Indian communities.

    Violent conflict often broke out between tribes that participated in the fur trade. There was some good in the fur trade, but more often, the effects of the fur trade were not positive for American Indians.

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    NEXT: WHAT’S AHEAD FOR THE BUFFALO?

    Francie M Berg

    Author of the Buffalo Tales &Trails blog

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